Swimming in a natural lake surrounded by stunning mountain landscapes? Sounds idyllic, right? Lac D’ Oo is the place you want to be.
I headed to this peaceful area in the Pyrenees for a writers retreat. Writers Bex Band and Emma Rosen held a beautiful escape for a bunch of us writers to get creative in the mountains. One afternoon we headed out for a half-day hike. I had no idea the hike would end with one of the most memorable swims of my life. Think icy cold glacier water but with glorious sunshine to warm up after. If you’re a wild swimming enthusiast or even just a curious hiker, read on and you will soon be wild swimming in Lac D’ Oo yourself.
Hiking to Lac D’ Oo
To get to this secluded swim spot, you first need to hike. It’s a fairly easy trail, covering around 6.6kms, and starting from Les Granges d’Astau car park – which is already sitting at over 1100m.
The trail begins by winding through luscious green fields, with mountain peaks surrounding you, watching over your hike. After a while, the gradient steepens. But there are plenty of opportunities for a rest in the shade, as the route begins to meander through a tall forest. Streams cascade down huge rocks between the trees, perfect for a refreshing face splash. This is my most memorable part of the hike.
Eventually, you will emerge from the trees to a stunning viewpoint, looking right down the valley to where you came from. Make sure you stop to take plenty of photos. After this point, the route rolls up and down, taking you across a stone bridge. Eventually, you’ll emerge at the top of a final short steep section next to the Refuge du Lac D’ Oo, to views across a beautiful lake: Lac D’ Oo.
The official route is named GR-10, marked with red and white way-markers. It is a well-signposted route that you will find easy to follow. But Bex has written a wonderfully detailed, step-by-step write up of the hike itself here that you can follow. Now, I want to jump to the swim…
Cooling wild swim in Lac D’ Oo
Lac D’ Oo is just about a perfect oval shape. When you appear from behind the refuge and look across its modest expanse, the first thing you’ll be drawn to is the towering waterfall at the opposite end. At 275m high, it cascades from mountain peaks plunging into the blue-green lake. Take a moment to peer above it, embracing the overshadowing and snowy peak of Aneto (3,404m).
If you hadn’t guessed from the waterfall, Lac D’ Oo is a glacial lake. Ice cold water melt from the surrounding mountains flows down into this peaceful pool. So the swim is COLD. Very cold. I visited Lac D’ Oo in June 2019 and despite the soaring temperatures, there were still blocks of ice sitting at the edge of, and partly submerged in the lake.
You can enter the water from very near the refuge. Be sure to take your time getting down to the waters edge – the rocks can be loose in places, and I’d suggest wearing shoes down to the waters edge as the gravel can also be quite sharp.
Once in the water, watch your step, as the water gets deep very fast. And don’t forget you control your breathing. This is standard practice for wild swimming, but particularly in cold temperatures.
The great news is: this swim is one of the most revistalising experiences you can have. The tingle of the ice-cold water pouring over your skin will send your senses into overdrive. While the goosebumps crawl up your skin and your control your breathing, your gaze casts up towards the greenery and white-topped summits surrounding you. It’s a once in a lifetime experience.
If you’re taking your dip in summer, you’ll warm up from the chilly waters in no time. Just make sure you have a towel and cover-up of some sort to keep you warm when you ponder out of the lake, and back up towards the refuge. The refuge sells refreshments – albeit not the cheapest – so you can mull over your wonderful swim with some snacks and drinks.
Plan Your Trip
Accommodation
We stayed in the charming Papilio Luchon guesthouse. Rooms can be rented per night or if you are travelling in a group, the entire guesthouse can be rented out. It’s an ideal location for exploring Bagnères-de-Luchon, a spa town full of restaurants and shops.
Note: If you are visiting in the summer, research what attractions and stores are open. As this is a popular snowsports area, some places may close over the summer.
Getting There
The nearest airport is in Toulouse and the nearest train station is Bagnères-de-Luchon. There are some bus services, but it is recommended that you hire a car while exploring the area, as this is the simplest way to get around.
Things to Do
In summer, there are plenty of streams dotted around the area for some impromptu wild swimming. These do run fast though, so ensure safety is a priority at all times. Or if you prefer something a little more gnarly, how about white water rafting? I’ve been white water rafting a few times in Scotland, and it’s phenomenal.
The Papilio Luchon guesthouse is actually joined to the headquarters for expedition company 360 Expeditions. So if you’re looking for hiking, the owners will have plenty of recommendations. 360 Expeditions run plenty of guided hikes including an awesome looking winter skills course! Prior booking required.
If winter snow is more your jam, beyond mountaineering, the area is buzzing with snowsports throughout the colder months. This Luchon Tourism site has all the information you need.
I’d love to do more wild swimming while travelling. It was such a nice bonus to this hike. Where would you recommend swimming?
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