Knoydart is the most remote area of mainland UK. Located in the North-West of Scotland and accessed by boat, it really does capture the true essence of adventure. A hikers dream paradise “island”, it is a raw, rugged landscape surrounding a tiny village. Away from the big cities and with no road access, it is the perfect place to fall in love with the hills all over again. I was lucky enough to visit Knoydart last summer with my friend Thomas. We wanted to explore these wild lands by hiking up the munros in the area. I’ve put together this guide to walking in Knoydart, based on my adventure there, for other hikers wanting to visit this enchanting part of Scotland.
Munro Bagging
There are 3 munros in the Knoydart area. Luinne Bheinn and Meall Bhuidhe are often climbed together, and these are the two that Thomas and I tackled. Graded “5-boots” on WalkHighlands, their toughest rating, it is not for the faint hearted. The terrain and surrounding views are reminiscent of Jurassic Park (my favourite movie, so I was in my element). Steep inclines and wading through waist-high bracken (watch out for ticks!) at the beginning. Then lots of up and down manoeuvres over rocky sections when traversing between the two peaks.
There is also a draining 10+km return walk home on flat farm tracks. A very varied and tiring route – but it’s all worth it! The scenery is surreal: green, lush flora carpets the side of rugged, craggy rock faces. The mountain range stretches for miles when you look inland, a reminder of why you took a boat to get here. You feel refreshingly alone and wonderfully free in these surroundings. The third munro in the area is Ladhar Bheinn. One day I will go back to tackle this peak and will update this post with a rundown!
Other Walks
If you’re not wanting to hike up a munro, there are plenty of lower wanders to still take in the beauty of Knoydart. I have linked the WalkHighlands page above for the munros, but this website truly is fantastic for all walks, big or small, across Scotland. Have a look here for walks in the Knoydart (and surrounding) areas. The Knoydart in a Knutshell trail looks perfect for those short on time, but still wishing to explore both the town and the scenery!
Important notes
Knoydart has zero phone reception, for calls, texts or internet. You need to plan in advance for walking in Knoydart. Make sure you have planned your route and collated all information you will need before you set off on your trip. It’s also good to remember that it’s Scotland, and the West coast at that. The weather is unpredictable. We had high winds, wet, low cloud and zero views on Meall Buidhe, and glorious sunshine, “taps-aff” weather on Luinne Bheinn. Then the day ended with torrential downpours. Do not doubt whether to pack your waterproofs.
The Snack Shack
The Snack Shack is a Knoydart-special godsend, that everyone walking in Knoydart needs to be aware of! We decided to check out The Snack Shack on our way back to the campsite. Exhausted and drenched from our long but brilliant day hiking, we stopped by to check if the rumours were true.
From the outside, it looks like a garden shed situated next to a BnB. You would assume it’s private property, if it weren’t for the chalkboard signage outside, beckoning you over. But inside, this understated shack is filled to the brim with food! I’m talking chocolate bars, crisps, cans of juice (also known as fizzy pop to many). The best bit? Frozen homemade meals, and a microwave to heat them up in. Like many close-knit communities in Scotland, the Snack Shack works on an honesty box. £3 to £5 can get you pasta bolognese or a roast ham meal with trimmings, plus plenty of veggie options.
And the owners are wonderful too
While we sheltered from the rain and heated our meals, the owners of The Snack Shack dropped in to check supplies. “So sorry if the place wasn’t stocked great or is a little out of shape – we’ve just came back from a weeks holiday”. I smiled and reassured them that the shack was absolutely perfect, heavenly actually, given how sodden we were. We asked a few questions about how long they had been running it for and where the idea came from. I will always remember the gentleman saying “You know, there were just all these hikers coming off the hill. They were exhausted, and really needed help. And we thought, something needs to be done to help the hikers out”. This generous couple kitout the shack with home cooked meals and snacks simply to help out weary hikers. The pure, honest intentions they have will always stay with me.
Other Food & Drink
The Old Forge is the infamous pub on the island and exactly where you need to be for the post-hike-pint. Enthusiasts travel to Knoydart purely for the novelty of the most remote pint in the UK. The team are incredibly friendly, the pints are excellent and there are food options too. However note that you must book in advance for this. We didn’t manage to test the meals, but they have nothing but rave reviews!
Before your ferry home, I highly recommend stopping at the Knoydart Pottery and Tearoom. We chilled out here for a while on our last afternoon. They serve breakfast rolls, tea and coffee, lunch options, and all with lovely smiles! There are adventure magazines to mosey through or you can simply enjoy the waterside views. It is here we read about The Listening Walk – inspirational local David Matthews is walking around the entire UK, visiting every single Samaritans branch in the country!
Getting There
Knoydart is accessible from two directions. The ferry from Mallaig or a VERY long hike in. Unsurprisingly the vast majority of adventurers will take the ferry from Mallaig.
Now, I will reiterate that this is the most remote place in the UK. So don’t picture one of the huge CalMac ferries. A better description would be a super-fun-fast-tiny-boat-ride (less catchy though). This crossing to Knoydart was like a speed boat trip at my hometowns boat club open day. All bags are out on deck covered with a piece of tarp and seating is grab-a-space style. Once the boat has left the harbour, the speed is kicked up and suddenly you are in the wilds. Big mountains and lush greenery surrounds you and the fresh, sea spray lashes you in the face. A wicked start to your adventure, before it has even really begun!
The ferry is provided by Western Isles Cruises. Tickets can be bought on your day of travel at the ferry port, with the exception of the first and last ferries of the day, which need to be booked in advance. Timetable and booking can be found here.
Accommodation
There are accommodation options to suit all who are walking in Knoydart. We camped at the only campsite in the area, Longbeach Campsite. It is a very basic campsite, with a lean-to for shelter and socialising and an eco-toilet! Most importantly it has unspoilt beach views to wake up to.
If you’re not much of a camper, there are plenty of other options to rest your head at night. The Knoydart Foundation Bunkhouse is fully equipped with a kitchen and even a cosy living room with fireplace, to unwind after your adventures. The Knoydart Lodge (who’s owners also run The Snack Shack!) is a stunning self-catering lodge with private rooms available. I could see in some of the windows while at the Snack Shack and it looks divine!
So what are you waiting for?
Being able to switch off from the world and really embrace this wild land, with nothing but the company of a good friend, beautiful mountains and friendly locals, gave me a true adventure I will always cherish. Embrace your inner explorer and head off walking in Knoydart!
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I absolutely love Knoydart!